Posted By: hondatek <hondatek@aol.com>

If weather holds out I may have some dyno results, so far the interstate (and all other Valks) hates high rpm advance timing, the retard advance curve may work better for more low rpm timing and less when at the 5800 h.p. peak, I think that either retard curve #8 or #7 may work best for all around.  I will post the results soon as I can.  So far in the advance curve #1 makes the best h.p. and torque as opposed to the stock box and the stock box still equals the dyna in h.p. and torque and is better than the standard Valk box, Honda did their homework on the interstate, but maybe there is some hidden h.p. still.

Later post by hondatek:

I have been testing the set up with a 6 degree trigger wheel and the box on #4 retard (white wire grounded) and the bike runs real good with lots of grunt down low and good upper end power.  Without the trigger wheel on the dyno curve #2 did best for the interstate.

Posted By: AlbqJim <jlantz@surfree.com>

[99 I/S]  I installed the 6° TW. LOVED it! I later bought a Dyna3k. Had some problems. I went back to the stock TW. I later received a replacement Dyna3k but left the stock TW in at the request of Dyna. I always missed that off idle grunt I had previously with the 6° TW. I got to staring at the Dyna advance curve charts. There is approximately an 8° difference between the 10 advance settings and the 10 retard settings of the Dyna. It really ain't rocket science . I reinstalled my 6° TW. Set the Dyna to retard mode by grounding the correct wire. (If you have a Dyna, you know what this is). Yes folks you can have your cake and wallow in it too! I am currently running a setting of "8" retard with the 6° TW. I also installed a switch in the retard wire incase I find myself slabbin it and want another 8° of advance for cruise. I haven't dyno'ed it, but if the elevation of the front wheel in 1st and 2nd is any indication . .

Re: dyna and trigger questions...

Posted By: Pinshooter <tmayhugh@austin.rr.com>

Date: 12/12/2001 at 20:14:21

In Response To: Re: dyna and trigger questions... (runflatout)

I enlarged the new Dyna 3000 curves posted by Steve L down further on the board, and it looks like curve 8 might be a winner. It has lots of low and midrange advance compared with stock, but only about 26 deg at 5000 rpm which is less than stock.

Re: dyna and trigger questions...

Posted By: hondatek <motorcycletek@aol.com>

Date: 12/11/2001 at 22:31:37

In Response To: dyna and trigger questions... (runflatout)

On the dyno, I ran an interstate with a 6 degree wheel and the Dyna 3000,out of most of the runs the engine made the best numbers with the 6 degree wheel and the Dyna set on RETARD setting (white wire grounded) #1 or #2, the engine hates advanced timing settings much above 25-27 degrees at rpms above 5000, but is real responsive down low and produces torque quickly.

Posted By: AlbqJim <jlantz@surfree.com>

Date: 12/20/2001 at 06:48:06

In Response To: FWIW (Chet@Rattlebars)

This data is per Hondatek. He has the dyno info if we can get him to post. For best power with the 1520, lots of initial advance with a flat total advance. IE: 10deg initial with a max of 26deg at rpm. According to Hondatek's data the 1520 will actually lose 1 HP per degree over 26 total. This is why you might lose top end with just an advanced TW. It will advance the timing across the entire curve giving you too much at redline.

This is where the Dyna3k comes into play. You can advance your initial timing for low end and mid range and then limit your total advance for top end.

Now for best gas mileage, it is a whole different ball game. 35 to 40 deg of advance at say 4000rpm cruise will give you phenomenal gas mileage.

More

Posted By: AlbqJim <jlantz@surfree.com>

Date: 2/11/2002 at 16:56:37

In Response To: Re: Proper tuning with TBR and Dyna (AlbqJim)

For best power I use the 6 degree TW for off idle and midrange power and than choose a curve that limits my total advance at redline to 25-26 degrees. This of course does nothing for gas mileage but shows the most HP and torque on the dyno. On my trip to Laughlin last spring I was running around 44 degrees total advance. I've never really checked actual MPG but on my trip over I was getting 160 miles per tank at 90 MPH cruise (4200rpm) on a 99 Interstate. On my return trip with the stock ECU installed. I was getting 100-120 miles per tank at 90 MPH cruise.

The way to do this on a normally aspirated Valk is to simply put a manual switch in the ground wire. Choose a setting that will give you total timing (with advanced TW) of 26 degrees with the Dyna grounded. When you hit the highway and are cruising, flip the switch to open and lay in an additional 10 degrees for MPG.

Update on TW profile and spark

Posted By: AlbqJim <jlantz@surfree.com>

Date: 3/23/2002 at 01:12:59

This is from Dave at Dynatek.

Hi Jim,

I had some time to read the posts. First thing I can tell from the posts is no one mentioned the microprocessor. The micro (for short) controls the dwell. The factory ignition has a fixed dwell of about 6mS at all RPM. Weak spark is a function of the ignition coil at this point. The Honda coil has 37mJ of primary energy, which according to Bosch should be enough to ignite any mixture, though I doubt it. I never measured the secondary voltage of the stock coil. Our 3ohm coils have almost 100mJ of energy and close to 35,000 volts if needed. Secondary kV is a function of spark gap/cyl pressure/mixture... so if 15kV is needed to jump the gap, that's what will be there.

As far as Trigger Wheels go, I like the Honda wheel the best though I have not had the chance to compare the other wheels. I really like the idea of making the pickups adjustable, but with the Dyna3000 ignition, timing can be adjusted with a knob change.

-Dave

Re: DYNA 3000 tuning.....

Posted By: AlbqJim <jlantz@surfree.com>

Date: 3/14/2002 at 14:03:25

In Response To: DYNA 3000 tuning..... (Chet@Rattlebars)

Keep the 10° and do the math. It gives you a wider spread when you are cruising and want MPG. I think the Rev D is different between the I/S and Standard. My setting 7 gives the highest overall peak on timing. 26° max timing will give you best HP if you are in drag bike mode. Anything over that and you are losing high end ponies. This is why it is pulling so well. Lots of timing in the low-mid and not over advanced on the high.

Remember the 33° you see on the chart is really 23° in retard mode +6° TW = 29°total.

Setting FOUR - 6° TW - DYNA GROUNDED! THIS IS IT!

Posted By: Chet@Rattlebars

Date: 3/14/2002 at 19:38:49

In Response To: DYNA 3000 tuning..... (Chet@Rattlebars)

Wild! I get about 1800 more useable RPM in the power range and it pulls harder throughout. Used to drop off after 5500 or so, but now screams beyond that up to 7200 or so.

No hard numbers, of course, just my behind.

Shift at 7000 and it drops to 6K after shift and pulls like mad to 7K or so. I can run through the top gears at this higher RPM and she flies like crazy! The exhaust note is completely different too. Nicer, for some reason.

I like this thing!

Dyna unit GROUNDED.

DYNA SET ON FOUR.

6° Trigger Wheel.

Good stuff! Thanks!

Posted By: AlbqJim <jlantz@surfree.com>

Date: 3/27/2002 at 14:21:48

In Response To: Made a new Web page just for you (Tim Skelton)

Here is another one of my posts I culled from a couple of weeks ago. Might help?

The TW gives you a hard setting that is constant through the entire rpm range. The ICU whether it be the stock unit or the Dyna, controls the timing electronically and creates the advance curve for the entire rpm range. When you add a 6° TW, you are adding 6° to the entire curve. The plus side, you get stronger off idle, low-mid range power. The negative side, you over advance at high rpm and lose HP. This is outside of the normal riding envelope that most will see or ride at on a daily basis, so the HP loss for the most part goes unnoticed. The Dyna being electronic needs input from the engine before it starts making any changes. The TW being mechanical has already made these changes with the engine turned off, so the initial advance is there whether you are idling at 400 rpm or 1000 rpm. Combining the two gives you the off idle grunt of the TW and the ability to control high rpm advance for high end HP. I.E. 26° total advance at redline or above.