hand control modifications

control cables and hoses:  Shown are the Pro One stainless brake lines, clutch line, throttle cables, choke cable, and speedometer cables.  These were my very first add-on.  To my eye, they are essential to a custom bike.  Except for the speedo cable, all are clearcoated.  Note: rumor has it that Pro One has stopped making stainless cables for the Valk.  Two Brothers Racing makes some of these, and uses the same quality Goodridge hoses.  Another note: billet banjo covers will not fit the stainless lines, since the banjo bolts are shorter than stock.  The billet covers must be ground down about 1/8" and the slots must be deepened (use a Dremel).

risers: Also visible are the Custom Chrome 3" pullback risers.  These are part number 08-971, bought from J-P Cycles (and finished off, of course, with Rattlebars Allen Snap Caps).  For a comparison of the different Custom Chrome risers, click here.  Also note the Jardine fork nut cover and Pro One fork cap covers.

other details:  Drag Specialties chrome brake reservoir covers, KuryAykn brake pin helmet locks, KuryAykn Iso Grips (with throttle boss), and Hondaline chrome levers.  Note: each of these items are also available from the VRCC Store.  They are cheaper and you help support the VRCC site.  Everybody wins.  The Allen Snap Caps on the brake clamps and Spectre bolt caps on the windshield mounting bolts are available from Rattlebars.

The chrome switch housings and reservoir clamps (pictured below) were from Rattlebars' chrome exchange program, but are sadly no longer offered.  Should you decide to have these items chromed on your own, plan on two or three hours to do the switch housings--it's not that difficult, but quite tedious.  Just relax and take your time.

KuryAkyn turn signal mirror installation:  Make sure you order the 5/16" (Harley) to 10mm (metric) adapters when you order the mirrors.

The wires for the KuryAkyn LED turn signal mirrors were routed in the conduit from the headlamp shell.  Just measure and cut the wire (I used 24 gauge stranded).   Straighten out a clothes hangar.  Loop the wire over the end of the clothes hangar and secure with a couple of wraps of electrical tape.  Feed the other end of the hangar through the conduit.  You may need to remove the conduit from the handlebar stays.  It was much easier after putting a little motor oil on the taped end.  Use Loctite on the adapter-to-mirror joints and the stem-to-mirror head joints.

Be sure to adjust the locking mechanism tension BEFORE you install them.  KA notes their "very heavy duty locking mechanism."  Very heavy duty indeed--I could barely even move the things.  The instructions for adjusting the tension are included with the mirrors.  BEFORE YOU WIRE, make sure that you can get the correct view -- I could not until I loosened the locking mechanism and worked a ton of graphite lubricant into the ball joint.

The color codes for the wires are opposite from other LED turn signals, so be sure to double check the wiring before getting out the soldering iron.