parts needed:

(1) Custom Chrome Doss lighted license plate frame.  The picture is deceptive; there are no turn signals in the finned areas.  If you want to get really custom, the LifeBrite lights would fit in this area if you grind the fins off.

I measured the space in the finned frames and compared with the LifeBrite specs.  It appears dead on.  You could use either amber turn signals or red stop lights (with built-in flashing feature!).

(2) Custom Chrome "Wedge" marker lights.

(3) License plate frame backing plate.

(4) Appropriately sized buttonhead carriage bolts, nuts, and lockwashers.

The carriage bolts are the kind with a mushroom head and a square section between the head and the threaded shaft.

(5)  Misc. bullet connectors, etc.

tools needed:

Crimping pliers

Normal hand tools

Helpful: circuit tester

Helpful: Honda service manual

Helpful: beer

license plate frame installation:

Remove the license plate light/turn signal assembly.  One bolt secures it all.  Feed the wires through the hole in the fender.  Unplug the bullet connectors.

Scratching your head, figure out the wiring.  Get the service manual.  If you are too cheap or stubborn, here is the wiring color codes for the rear lights:

Left turn signal

orange

Lay the backing plate against the fender.  Figure out where the holes must be drilled.  Drill the holes.  p.s. - I tried all of the custom Harley mounting brackets.  They won't work.

Using a small file, make the holes square so that they will accept the buttonhead carriage bolts (the idea is to keep the bolt from turning when you attach the nuts).  Fit the bolts in the holes.  Grind off the heads so that they are a little flatter.

Place your license plate in the frame and assemble the frame.

Wire the frame light.  Trim the rubber gasket so that it cannot be seen sticking out of the sides.  Install the frame.  Push the wires into the fender for now.

saddlebag turn signals:

Remove the saddlebag reflectors.  Place the marker light gaskets against the area where the reflectors were.  Perfect fit!  Mark and drill the holes for the bolts and a pass-through hole for the wires.  Note that the pass-through must be large enough to pass the connectors (unless you want permanently attached saddlebags).

I used Dean's connectors, which are very small connectors used in radio controlled modeling (get from a hobby shop).  Mount the lights.

Modification for quicker removal:  Throw away the mounting bolts that come with the lights.  Replace the bolts with studs epoxied into the lights.  Use wing nuts to attach the lights to the bags.  This will make removal/replacement easier if you are using the saddlebag guards.

Run wires from the fender to the saddlebags using the above wiring color codes.  Drill the holes in the saddlebags wherever you are comfortable.  Wire up the lights.

Fire it up and do a smoke test.  If all is well, secure the mare's nest of wires under the fender.  I wrapped the whole bundle in a plastic baggie and zip tied it before I stuffed it in place.

important note:

The turn signals will flash rapidly now.  This is because the lower amperage draw of the new lights fools the circuit into thinking that a bulb is out.  A resistor must be added to the circuit to simulate the current draw of the stock turn signals.  Instructions are here.