installing Lazer Star driving lights

The number one cause of motorcycle accidents is not being seen by a cage driver.  Auxiliary lights are a great way to be more visible to oncoming traffic.  I don't like the big Harley-type light bars or windshield mounted lights.  Too busy; not very Boyd’s.

I looked for the smallest lights I could find.  The PIAAs are nice, but since I have the Two Brothers Racing triple clamps, which are thicker than stock, I don't have room for lights under the triple clamp.

I decided on Lazer Stars.  They are small, well made, bright, and nice looking.  I chose the "Shorties" (only 2 1/4" X 2 1/2") with 50 watt bulbs so I could have them on day and night.  Since I live in Los Angeles, I rode on down to Weekend Concepts, the manufacturer of the Lazer Stars, and met with Ron Scott, Vice President of Operations.  Ron was very helpful, walking me through the whole operation and helping me select the right lights for my application.

After choosing the lights, the next decision was the mounting location.  Although there are some other options, I decided that the optimum location for my needs (and aesthetic preferences) was on the sides of the radiator covers.  My first attempt failed.  I mounted the lights by drilling a hole about 2/3 of the way down the sides of the covers.  The plastic developed radial cracks when the studs were tightened.  Additionally, the fit got sloppy over time as the holes in the plastic became elongated.  I installed the washers supplied in the Lazer Star kit and that solved the problem, but the radial cracks were unacceptable.  I knew I had to come up with another solution.  Although the lights looked great there, and probably would be okay if I had used the washers from the beginning, I needed to replace the covers and I wasn't about to risk breaking another set ($55).

I decided to go at it another way.  The radiator side covers are attached with 6mm buttonhead allen bolts.  The Lazer Stars have 3/8" OD mounting studs.  Idea!  Drill and tap the Lazer Star studs so that they could thread into the side cover mounting bolts.  Nice, solid mounting.

Also note the 6” LED strips from Signal Dynamics on the radiator covers (note: I stole this idea from George Jackson's super clean bike).

Here's how to do it.

tools needed:

Drill with 13/64" and No. 29 bits

Taps - 6mm and No. 8-32

Vise

Dremel Moto-Tool and cut-off wheels (or hacksaw)

parts needed:

(2) 6mm bolts or thread-all, approx. 2" long

(2) 6mm flange nuts

(2) 8-32 X 1/4" set screws

Loctite (blue)

step 1 - drill and tap the mounting studs:

Fortunately, the Lazer Star studs are hollow.  Clamp the studs in a vise.  Using a 13/64" bit, open up the inside holes.  Drill all the way through to the mounting hole ("A" in the high-tech drawing to the left).

step 2 - cut off the threaded part of the mounting studs:

Clamp the studs sideways in the vise.  Using a cutoff wheel on your Dremel (or hacksaw), cut off the threaded part of the mounting studs.  They should be flush (B).  If the cut is rough, use a grinding stone on the Dremel to smooth it out.

step 3 - drill and tap for the set screws:

Using the No. 29 bit, drill holes for the set screws (C).  So they won't be visible, drill them on the bottom.  Remember that the studs are mirror images, so drill the holes on opposite sides of the two studs or one will be on the top.  Using the 8-32 tap and some WD-40, cut threads in the holes.

step 4 - tap the mounting studs:

Using the 6mm tap and some WD-40, cut threads in the mounting studs.  Cut the threads as deep as you can.  Keep cutting until the tap hits the top of the light mounting eye.  The finished product should look something like the image below.  Note that this is not the finished product -- I mistakenly drilled a hole on the front.  On top of that, I first used a 6-32 set screw size.  This was too small because the tap broke off in the hole (that is the broken shaft of the tap is the picture).  The 4-40's tapped much easier.  Also, the set screw shown is too long.

step 5 - drill the side covers:

Using an appropriate bit, drill a hole for the wires to pass through.  I made the hole in the corner of the recess in the side covers where the bolts.  The wires are barely visible in the crappy picture.

Thread the wires through the holes.  Wrap the lights with cloth or paper towels to prevent scratches on the side covers during installation.  Route the wires so that they will not be pinched between the covers and the radiator.  For the ground, I used large crimp-on eyes (yellow plastic insulators removed) and grounded to the top bolts securing the engine guards.

step 6 - install the lights:

Apply blue Loctite to the first inch or so of the new 6mm bolts.  Thread the bolts into the radiator sides until you feel solid resistance (if you used thread-all, tighten two nuts against each other and then thread into the radiator).  I did not tighten them down hard, as I am not sure whether they might poke through into the radiator core.  That would be a $450 mistake.

Cut the heads off of the bolts (or remove the nuts if you used thread-all).  Secure the radiator covers with the 6mm flange nuts (use some Loctite if you are the paranoid type).  Place the Lazer Star studs alongside the bolts.  After marking, cut the bolts to size.

Using blue Loctite, thread the Lazer Star studs onto the 6mm studs.  Get them down as far as they will go and still allow the lights to face forward.  Attach the lights to the studs.  Aim the lights top-to-bottom and install the set screws, using some blue Loctite.  Aim the lights side-to-side and tighten the allen head cap screws.  Top off the cap screws with some allen bolt caps from Rattlebars.  Install the grill.  Take a break.

step 7 - wire the lights:

I used the Lazer Star motorcycle wiring kit.  Very nicely constructed and well worth the $25.  Comes with a relay, weather sealed switch, and all connectors.

I installed the switch in the center panel under the seat.  To accomplish this, remove the seat, the side covers, and the bolts securing the center panel.  Push the center panel forward so that is sits at an angle.  Using a long 1/2" drill bit (borrow one from someone who drilled their baffles), come in from the seat area.  The angle on the center panel will allow you to drill a straight hole.  After the hole is drilled, attach the crimp-on connectors for the switch.  Connect the switch.  Place the switch in the hole and tighten the nut down.  Replace the center panel and bolt back down.

Locate the spare accessory connectors Honda graciously added.  They are plastic-covered bullet connectors located just over the main fuse panel.  This will allow the lights to be switched with the ignition.  This is where to get the power for the switch/relay.

Attach the relay wherever you can find.  I just stuffed mine in the space behind the center panel.

Run the wires to the lights under the tank, following the main wire harness.  For a really neat job, remove the tank and wire tie to the harness.  Run the wires up over the front plastic heat shield behind the radiator.  Run the wires down to the lights, being careful not to allow the wires to get caught in the fan.  Add the crimp-on connectors and attach them to the lights.

Cut on the ignition, cut on the light switch, and do a "smoke test."

Do a final aim on the lights.  The Lazer Stars are very bright and will blind oncoming traffic if maladjusted.

You're done.

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© 04/10/2005 tim skelton