brembo installation notes

The included instructions are worthless, generic instructions.  Use the rotor replacement section in a service manual.  Some of the less common tools required include a seal puller (not really required), a 10mm socket for your 1/2" torque wrench, long and mid-length 18mm sockets, and a block of wood to hammer on.

If you are replacing the lines, a 7/16" flare nut wrench may be needed if the chassis connection is sticky. 

Unless you are more talented than me, buying a set of replacement hub covers in advance may be prudent-they are difficult to remove without destroying them. 

The used set I bought had inner races already installed, so I do not know for sure whether inner races are included with the Brembos.  If not, removing the inner race and replacing it in the Brembo hub might require some additional tools.

One important thing to remember--there are two sets of rings.  The smaller is a replacement grease seal.  The larger -- the thin hard plastic ring -- goes around the spindle after the hub is installed in the area shown in red in the above image.

It is easiest to loosen the chassis line connection (green in the above photo) before removing the line bracket.  Leave the line connected to the old caliper until you are ready to swap out the lines.

The Brembo calipers mount on two pins, so pad changes are simple.  I needed a block of wood to use to tap the calipers down onto the mounts.  The tiny 10mm nuts must be torqued to 80 lbs. ft.

The calipers and mounts weigh 12 pounds, as opposed to the stock 17 lbs.  The rotors, however, are 27 lbs. versus the stock 24, so the net weight savings is only 2 lbs. per side.

Pictured to the left are some stainless brake lines a friend made for me.  The stock Brembo lines had developed leaks, so the previous owner went back to stock lines.  I have since bought a complete 5-piece DOT-spec stainless line kit from lightningbrakeperforance.com.

Make sure to bleed the inboard bleeder first.