The enable/disable mode allows the autolock feature to be turned off and on. On manual transmission vehicles, when replacing the remote anti-theft personality (RAP) module, the autolock feature must be turned off by using the enable/disable mode. The enable/disable mode is entered when the following series of steps is performed:

1. Confirm that the perimeter alarm is disarmed.

2. Close all doors.

3. Confirm that the ignition switch is in the OFF position. Note: Steps 4 through 8 must be performed within 30 seconds.

4. Turn the ignition switch from OFF to RUN.

5. Press the power door lock UNLOCK button three times.

6. Turn the ignition switch from RUN to OFF.

7. Press the power door lock UNLOCK button three times.

8. Turn the ignition switch from OFF to RUN.

9. Verify that the RAP module chirps the horn. This indicates that the RAP module is now in the enable/disable mode and ready to accept program changes.

10. Press the power door lock UNLOCK button one time to command the RAP module to toggle the autolock/relock feature ON or OFF.

11. Press the power door lock LOCK button once to enter the command.

12. Verify that the vehicle horn chirps one time to signal the RAP module confirmation of the command. There should only be one chirp indicating that the autolock/relock feature has been disabled. If one chirp is heard, followed by a longer honk, the autolock/relock feature has just been enabled. Return to step 10.

13. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position to exit the enable/disable mode.

14. Verify that the RAP module chirps the horn once to indicate that a feature has been changed. The autolock and the appropriate alarm configuration are turned on at the factory on vehicles with automatic transmissions. Vehicles with manual transmissions have the autolock turned off at the factory. The RAP module returns to the prior setting any time battery power is interrupted.

Hold the volume button down for three seconds.  Use the "select" button to program in a number.  Anything over about "3" is ridiculous.  I get best results with the setting on "1."

There is no software solution for the door chime when the key is in the ignition and the door is open (such as when you are listening to the radio with the door open while waxing the truck).  The only solution is to place a switch inline with the door open button.

You can Deactivate the Belt Minder two ways. First, you can deactivate it temporarily for your current "run cycle", that is after you have started your car and it's still running. Second, you completely deactivate the Belt Minder so that it never reminds you again, or at least until your reactivate it...

The first method, temporary deactivation, or one time disable: After you have started your vehicle, buckle and then un-buckle your safety belt. Be sure to buckle back up.... This will disable the Belt Minder only for that ignition cycle.

The second method, permanent deactivation: There are 9 steps you need to follow to deactivate or activate your Belt Minder system. Before doing so, make sure that: The parking brake is set. The truck/car is in Park (automatic), Neutral (manual). The ignition is OFF. All doors are closed. The driver's safety belt is un-buckled. The parking and headlights are OFF. Then follow these 9 steps:

Turn the ignition switch to ON, but DO NOT START. Wait for the safety belt warning light to go OFF(1-2 minutes). Steps 3-5 MUST be completed within 60 seconds!

Buckle, then un-buckle the driver's safety belt 3 times, ending with the belt un-buckled. Turn on the headlights, turn off the headlights. Buckle, then un-buckle the driver's safety belt 3 times, ending with the belt un-buckled. After step 5, the Safety Belt Warning Light will be turned on for 3 seconds.

Within 7 seconds of the safety belt warning light turning OFF, buckle then un-buckle the safety belt. This will disable the Belt Minder if it is currently enabled, or enable the Belt Minder if it is currently disabled.

Confirmation of the disabling of the Belt Minder is provided by flashing the safety belt warning light 4 times per seconds for 3 seconds. Confirmation of the enabling of the Belt Minder is provided by flashing the safety belt warning light 4 times per seconds for 3 seconds, followed by 3 seconds with the safety belt light off, then followed by flashing the safety belt light 4 times per second for 3 seconds again. After confirmation, the deactivation/activation of the Belt Minder procedure is complete.

The air conditioner compressor runs when the control knob is in any position other than off.  This is done to keep lubrication in the compressor even in the cold months.  So don't use even the fan to cool yourself off at the track.
 

According to Stan Martin, the theoretical top speed of a Lightning with 3.55 gears and stock tires at the stock 5,200 redline is about 176 (not taking into account the increased diameter of the tires at high speeds).

By FC Miller:

The EL gauge face in a Lightning is activated, or "driven", by an inverter circuit that boosts the truck's 12 volt system up to approximately 120 volts. The circuit also takes the DC signal and pulses it to approximately 400 Hz. Most of these types of circuits are protected by a fuse and, fortunately for us, so is this one. Let me make clear that this is not one of the fuses that is in the access panel under the dash or under the hood. This fuse is in the inverter circuit. The inverter circuit (board) is packaged separately inside the gauge cluster and can be removed and repaired. You will need to remove the cluster from the vehicle.

Headlight knob removal:

Before you do any work disconnect the (-) ground side of the battery. You will need to remove the black dash plate around the steering column, the headlight switch, the black dash panel that the headlight switch mounts into, the large dash panel above the instrument cluster and the black circular panel around the radio control panel. The headlight switch is easy to remove but tricky, you need to know how. Turn the headlight switch knob to the "on" position. Pull the knob out like you are turning on the fog lamps. Look on the underside of the knob and you will see a small square access hole. Inside that hole is a snap that needs to be released. Insert a tooth pick into the hole while pulling out on the knob. Be careful, the snap is fragile. The knob should slide off. The knob is now used as a tool to remove the headlight switch. Turn the knob 180 degrees and place it back on the switch stem. Turning the knob will disengage the hooks that retain the switch.

Cluster removal:

You're past the difficult part, the rest is fairly straightforward. After you have all the dash panels off you can loosen the cluster by removing 4 screws. At this point make sure that you are grounded to the truck. Attach a wire to a piece of sheet metal under the dash and then strip the insulation off the remaining end and put it inside your sock and make sure that the wire is in contact with your skin. The PATS module in the cluster is ESD sensitive. You don't want to go to all the trouble of fixing the inverter but zap the security module in the process.

At this point you need to remove the cable that operates the shift indicator dial in the cluster. A small black cable runs from the bottom of the cluster down underneath the steering column and then attaches to a hook that is attached to the transmission shift lever. Disconnect the cable from the shift lever. Disconnect the two wiring harness connectors and the vacuum line for the boost gauge. The rubber boot that attaches the vacuum line was surprisingly difficult to remove but if you turn it a bit while pulling, it should come off of the gauge barb. At this point the cluster should lift out of the dash.

Cluster disassembly:

Place the cluster face down and remove the white plastic back cover. You should see a three wire connector next to where the boost gauge fitting is. This connector is for the inverter module. Disconnect the inverter connector and the connector for the odometer and remove the cluster board. Place the board on something soft like foam rubber or a conductive ESD bag if you have one. Remember this board must be protected from static charges or your security module is toast. Remove the plastic panel that covers the inner gauges. Try not to let the clear plastic front lenses or the gauge face separate. All you want to remove is the white panel.

When the panel is removed you will see that the three wire connecter leads go to a black plastic cube attached to the inside of the panel with two screws. This is the inverter. Disconnect the two wire connector from the EL panel and remove two screws. Luckily Ford did not pot the whole circuit or we would be out of luck. You should be able to see the EL driver board and all of its components.

Fuse replacement:

Notice where the three wire connector wires attach to the board. Next to this attachment point is a green component that should have "LF 1/4 amp " printer on it. This is a 1/4 amp Littelfuse. Meter across this fuse and hopefully you find that it is open. This fuse is Littelfuse P/N R251.250. It is a fast blow , axial lead , 1/4 amp fuse. At this point all you need to do is buy a fuse from Newark Electronics or some other supplier and install it. I would suggest not trying to put a larger fuse in thinking that it will prevent it from blowing again. The fuse may very well have saved the coil or the transistor that chops the signal and both of those would have been much harder to replace. Put a 1/4 amp back in and if it blows again several years from now, just replace it again.

UPDATE:

It appears the fuse is under sized and degrades after a period of time and eventually fails. The correct fix is to replace the blown 1/4 amp fuse with a 1/3 amp. My latest 1/3 amp repair job has lasted over a year where as the previous three jobs, done with 1/4 amps, only lasted 7 months each. Hope this is of benefit to you. Good luck.