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Those of us with a black truck understand the need for careful detailing. Here are my tips, r. This is my detailing routine, derived from equal part browsing Web pages and my own trial and error. washing: Required:
1. Use the citrus degreaser to get rid of tar, sap, etc. 2. Wash with soap. Dip the mitt frequently to shed dirt. Keep the surface wet to avoid water spots. If you want to strip off the old wax, use Dawn dishwashing detergent. For black trucks: Wash the roof and hood in a front-to-back motion -- do not wash in circles. Then wash the sides and tailgate in an up-and-down motion. This helps fight off swirl marks. For tough brake dust, wheel cleaner may be required. 3. Use the Water Blade to get most of the water off. Touch up with a chamois. 4. Every six months or so, use the clay bar. It is remarkable how much junk builds up on the paint, even with frequent power polishing. 5. For Bedrug owners: Use home steam cleaning carpet shampoo. Any other kind of soap is almost impossible to get off. polishing/waxing/detailing: Required:
While everyone has their favorite waxes, Meguiar's has been around for about a century and has proven itself to make high quality products at a reasonable cost. They are available ay nearly any store which carries auto care products. And their Web site is a fantastic resource. It seems to be generally accepted that black cars need a natural carnauba wax. The synthetic waxes tend to leave a silvery finish, whereas petroleum-carried carnauba makes the paint much deeper. Try them side-by-side and make up your own mind.
It is important to select the right pads for the product being applied. It is also important to use a pad only for a single product. I bought the 7424, Monkey Tail (pictured to the left), and pads from Classic Motoring Accessories. Classic is one-stop shopping for all your polishing needs and has competitive pricing. Classic also has a couple of 7424 starter kits with everything you need to get going.
2. Examine the finish carefully. If any scratches or severe swirl marks remain, use Scratch-X on the Porter-Cable. 3. Move on to the #2 polish or #7 Show Car Glaze. This step is where you should spend the most time. The secret to a great finish is the polishing step, not the wax step! I polish the lights also. I just go right over the emblems as if they don't exist. The Porter-Cable leaves a nice, even easy-to-remove layer of polish. Clean off the reside. If I'm just doing a 2-step polish job (polish + wax), I use the #2, which has a little more cut than the #7. When I'm doing the full clean/polish/wax job, I use the #7, which has less cut but fills in the tiny scratches which are visible as swirl marks. 4. Move on to the waxing. A light coat will do. Remove with a terry cloth. I don't really worry about what it looks like at this stage--I'm just concerned with removing the wax reside, not getting a show car finish (yet). Remove any masking tape. 5. Then use a detailing brush (or a toothbrush) to clean around the emblems, etc. 6. Hit the door jambs, tailgate sides, etc, with the Quick Detailer. The Quick Detailer also does a decent job of removing dried wax from trim pieces. 7. Finish off with a full rubdown with flannel polishing cloths or diapers. I start off with a circular motion, then finish off with linear strokes (no swirls!). misc tips: To remove dried wax from textured plastic, use a standard red rubber eraser. Works like magic. Don't bother with gum erasers; they will just crumble. To remove polishing cloth fibers from the felt door seals, use a lint brush. Coat the plastic wheel well liners with Armor-All or equivalent. Not only does it look nice, but it also makes them easier to clean the next time.
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The
Porter-Cable 7424 is a dream come true. It simply cannot leave swirl
marks because it does not rotate. It moves back and forth. It's
lightweight and there is a large number of companies providing supplies for
the 7424. It technically speeds up the polishing process, but I usually
spend even more time because it does such a fantastic job.
1. If it's been a while since the
last full polish, start off with the #1 cleaner, which has a mild cutting
action. Use masking tape to cover the plastic trim on the bed rails,
weatherstripping, etc. Apply to the appropriate foam pad. Just
apply the cleaner to the outer edge of the pad -- the shape of the pad will
force the
polish to the center. Clean off the reside with a terry towel.
If you get any on the trim or rubber, hit it with some Quick Detailer before
it's completely set and it should come right off.